ok.. started the setup.. but still early days... I will update the first post with observations as I go.. that way its in one place and easy to read..

The base plate not much to say...




Main frame... this goes together very easily.. and I really like having the screws already in the parts so you know exactly where everything goes... I also like the 3rd bearing is slightly elongated, so it can float a bit allowing you to get the frame straight, so the mainshaft just drops through...
When doing the frame, dont loctite yet, leave everything a bit loose.. it will make sense later...




With that you need to put together the sensor plates that sit at the back..

 

Now for the transmision for lack of a better term.. these are all the gears for the torque tube... keep in mind you will need to pull it all apart, loctite and re-assemble.. its an easy processes.. just make you loctite the set screw, or your in for a bad day...



Take note of the red circles.. thats the set screw, and where it goes in.. LOCTITE it...

 

It looks the design is very minimalistic...ie light weight. Will be interesting to see what the weight is once completed without packs.

 

Best thing @smakmeharder is that they are tough in a crash. Very hard to break a set of synergy frames

 

Keep the build pics, observations and tips coming @Manyc ... I intend to follow your lead later this year and build an E7SE also..

Looking forward to seeing the end result..

 

I have an E7, and like it alot, it's a fun machine
Simon

 

The kits only $700 at the moment.. That must be close to cost... Get in now...

 

ok.. I've kinda changed the build order from the manual a bit, mainly because I haven't soldered my motor and could not be bothered doing it last night... Also the manual just forgets to mention the anti-rotation bracket.. just appears on the pics as installed.. its not hard.. just keep an eye out for it.

The back plate.. pretty simple...


Next I worked on the main gear... you need to pull this apart, loctite the screws.. use red/green loctite on the brushed spacers.. use oil on the one way.. not grease...


Now put it in with there is a little spacer on the main shaft, sit it between the hub and the other collar.. should line up nice.. push down on the the collar on the top, and pull on the main shaft up so there is no up and down play...

Landing gear - has some nice inserts that go into the skids.. but can be tricky to line up.. just put a screw driver in the hole in the pipe's, slide the inserts in and use the driver to stop it.. then just use the driver to line it up, and in slide into the landing gear and screw and loctite.

 

On the skids @Manyc, I place a wooden shazlick stick (two taped together for length) and push one end into the bush that slides into the skid. Then just slide it up the skid pipe until they line up with the struts. @Jeff B threads a flybar into the end and does the same thing...but I'm all out of flybars....
Simon

 

I good tip is to reverse the skid struts, due to their tail heavy design it will sit much better


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

And they look 'tougher'
Simon

 

Another tip
I tried 3300 sticks in the E7 and it was off it's head. I'd get @Jeff B to comment (he flew those packs), but it really is like a finger in a glove, the disk loading is great and a 4 minute flight time
Simon

 

Ok.. Its been a while, but with Wagga I have been busy.. and got a real feel for the heli.. so here is the rest of the build...

Now you should be up installing the transmission front.. these have ever so elongated holes.. make sure to move the mount for the fore of the heli for proper meshing..


Now build the boom mount.. no real info needed here... tho I would now mark the boom for pinning before you mount this part.. just put one of the brackets over the boom, slide it in till you see a slight ring of silver all the way round and then use a screw to mark the boom.. if you push it to close you may strip those gears..





next build the main gear, one way and auto rotation gear...




Next mount the motor.. when mounting dont tighten the bolts just yet.. adjust the meshing.. I use a bit of paper to determine if its messhing fine... The paper should come out making the pattern of the gear mesh, but not rip or tear in anyway going through.. you should have a bit of play between them...

 

Now make up the ESC plate and mount in the frame


Now build the head.. its the pretty standard.. just make sure you mount the arms to the LEADING EDGE of the blade grips...


now assemble the tail... make sure that you take out and LOCTITE THE SET SCREW THAT HOLDS THE TAIL GEAR PIN IN...



now make up the torque tube.. make sure to not make the spacing symetrical or you may cause vibrations... also to help get it in the boom, grease the rubber case, and I put silicon spray down the tube.. slides in very easily..


Now mount the tail.. make sure to line up the tail case straight... pin the boom again, and your pretty much done...

 

I've updated the initial post with some observations and thoughts... happy to answer any questions people have.. but keep cant guarantee I will know the answer

 

Great job @Manyc , looking forward to the maiden report .

 

Maiden went well.. very smooth.. however I did have the boom to tight against the front gears and wore the gears down.. once I meshed them right.. it has been a very nice heli to fly.. handles the wind well... and is very stable.. yes.. has to the with the FBL as well..

generally I am very happy with it...

 

What head speed did you choose for it, and what was your final pack capacity configuration?

 

running 2000, as I did not soften the dampers, which I would do next time..

HS = 2000
pitch = 13
Packs = 2 x 5000mah

Flying what I call hard.. easy 4 - 4.5 min...

flying like @ArgyPak 5 - 5.5 min

I have some 4100mah packs I am keen to try in there as well...

 

Awesome